^ 




Class 



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Book -$5 7 



Copyrigat^ _ 



CQFXRIGHT DEPOSHi 



DESIGNING 

Sack Coats, ^Dress Coats and Ve£ts 



<&f 



Harry Simons 

Technical Editor of The Clofhing, 
^esi&ner- & cManufacturer- and 
cAuikoT- of "Science of Grading"; 
"^Desi&nin^ Overcoats" ; "^Drafting, 
^Pants and Overalls" and 
"^Drafting, Cotton Garments". 



Copyright 191^ 



(Published by 

The Clofhing, T)esig>ner- Company 

70 FiffK c/4venue, cNew York City° 



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I^^^H^^I^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|^^^^^H^^^^4^^^^4 , ^^4^4^^^^^4^^^^^4 > ^^^ 



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HIS book is intended for the experienced 
designer and cutter, as well as the begin- 
ner. The system described and illustrated 
has been thoroly tested for a period of 
over twenty-five years. Every detail is 
minutely described. The drafts and text can be 
used as a ready reference in dealing with the prob- 
lems of drafting sack coats, frock coats and vests. 

The drafts are all made by the proportionate 
method, using the breast measure as a keynote and 
guide to obtain the various sectional measures, such 
as the strap, depth of scye, over-shoulder and front 
shoulder point as well as the width of back, blade 
and width of forepart. 

This book is the first of its kind ever published. 
It deals directly with the drafting method used in 
wholesale manufacturing. Extreme care has been 
taken to simplify the instruction. Every draft can 
be immediately put into use, and the reader will 
get satisfactory results. 

Harry Simons, Author. 

©CI.A501986 



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OCT -I 1918 



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/wo \ 



INDEX 

Construction Lines of Back 5 

Drafting Back 5 

Drafting Forepart 6-7 

Drafting Undercollar 8 

Drafting Sleeve 9 

Double Breast Sack Coat 10-11 

Young Men's Sack Coat 12-13 

Young Men's English Coat 14-15 

Golf Coat 16-17 

Tuxedo 18-19 

Single Breasted Frock Coat 20-21 

Full Dress Coat 22-23 

Prince Albert or Double Breasted Frock Coat . . 24-25 

Stout Sack Coat 26-27 

Double Breasted Stout Coat 28-29 

Stout Single Breasted Frock Coat 30-31 

Pinch Back Coat 32-33 

Making Longs and Shorts 34-35 

Men's and Young Men's Vest 36-37 

Double Breasted Vest 38 

Dress Vest 39 

Stout Vest 40 

Whole Back 41 

Manipulation 42-43 

Mail Order Changes - 44-45-46 

Proportions -. . • - 47 

Books . 48 

School 48 

Patterns > - > 48 



Page Three 




Preliminary Instruction 

HE drafts illustrated in this 
book are either size 36 or 38, 
except in the case of stouts, 
which are drafted size 40. 
These are considered the 
model sizes that are generally 
used in the "ready-made'' 
houses. When a model is per- 
fected and passed upon, as is the usual custom, 
it is then graded up and down to the various 
sizes required. 

For the Beginner 

In drafting these garments, a knowledge of 
the tailor square is absolutely essential; other 
wise the student will become confused. When 
a sixth of breast is quoted, the average student 
will immediately say 1/6 of 36 is 6 inches. In 
the case of drafting 1/6 of 36 is 1/6 of 18 on the 
sixth scale, inasmuch as only one side of the 
garment is drafted. The only place throughout 
the system where this differs is on the breast 
measure, where one-half of the actual measure 
of draft is applied. For example, if the breast 
measure is 36 inches, 18 inches is given. 

All regular sack models are figured on a basis 
of 5 feet 8 inches in height. The sleeve inseam 
is figured 18 inches. The draft on creating 
longs and shorts explains clearly how the 
heights are figured. 

A full list of proportions will be found on the 
last page of this book, which will act as a guide 
to draft the various sizes. 

In drafting for wholesale or "ready-made'' 
concerns, no short measures are necessary. The 
proportions are figured on the average built 
model for the given size of an average height 
The system here taught will automatically bring 
out the various sectional measures by using the 
divisions of the breast measure. 



Memorizing Imperative 

It is absolutely imperative to memorize the 
text of the first three diagrams, as the entire 
method is based on the points explained in them 
There are slight deviations on some of the othei 
drafts to get the desired effects. These changes 
are explained wherever they appear. 

Every point that is necessary in the drafting 
of sack coats, dress coats and vests will be 
found within the pages of this book. Some of 
the best known designers attribute their success 
to the use of this system, as it is so simple and 
efficient. The best possible results as to bal- 
ance and fit have been obtained through it for 
years. 




Diagram A 

It is not a matter of guess or theory. It is 
the results of twenty-five years' experience with 
the largest concerns in the country. No -de- 
signer or cutter need hesitate to use this system 

Diagram A. This explains the location of the 
measurements taken. 



Line 


A 


is 


the neck point. 




Line 


B 


is 


the height of shoulder. 




Line 


C 


is 


the breast line. 




Line 


D 


is 


the waistline. 




Line 


E 


is 


the seat line. 




Line 


F 


is 


the length of sack. If an 


overcoat, 



the length is made accordingly. 



Page Four 





Construction Lines for Drafting the Back 

Measurements : Breast 36 inches. 

Draw line 2-A-G-B-C-D-E-F. 

2 to A is % inch. 

B is Vi of 19 from A. This you will note is 
figured on a basis of 2 sizes larger than the 
breast measure. This only applies to the depth 
of scye. 

C is y-z of 19 from A. 

D is 17% inches from A, % of the total 
height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

E is 23 inches from A. 

F is the full length, 30 inches in this case. 

G is half way between A and B. 

Square out from points 2-A-G-B-C-D-E-F. 

H is % inch from D. 

J is % inch from F. 

Draw line G-H-F. 

K is 1/3 of 18 from C. 

K to 3 is 2 inches. 

Square up from 3 to 7, which will establish 
points 8 and 9. 



L is 1/3 of breast from H. 

L to 4 is % inch. 

Square up and down from 4. 

5 is squared from 4. 
10 is squared from 4. 

6 is y% inch from 5. 

DRAFTING THE BACK. 

Continue from Diagram 1. 

12 is 1/6 of breast from A. 

13 is squared from 12. 

14 is % from 13. 
Draw line 2-14. 

15 is % inch from 8. 
Draw line 14-15. 

16 is 1/12 of breast from 3. 

17 is % from 16. 

18 is y 4 from 17. 

Shape the line 15-18 and then draw the centei 
seam and side-seam, which finishes the back. 

(Continued on next page) 



Page Five 



Drafting the Forepart 

(Conservative Sack) 
Diagram III 



The back of this draft is drafted the same as 
the previous diagram. 

20 is 2/3 of 18 from C. 

21 is 1V 2 inches from 20. 
Square up from 21 to 22. 

22 to 23 is 1/6 of breast plus V 2 inch. 
Draw line 23-15. 

23 to 25 is y± inch less than 14 to 15. 
26 is % from 25. 

Shape the shoulder and armhole 26-23 and 
26-27. 

17 to X is y 4 inch. 

28 is % inch from 4. 

29 is 2 1 /4 inches from 11. 

30 is the length of side-seam of forepart 
which is the same as 18-6. 

Shape the side-seam, as illustrated. 

31 is 18 inches from 24, % of the actual 
breast measure. 

32 is 2V 2 inches from 31. 

33 is 1% inches from 32. 

34 is squared from 33. 

35 is 1/6 of breast from 34. 
Shape the gorge 23-35. 

36 is 2 inches from 35. 

37 is squared from 33. 

38 is % inch from 37. 

39 is squared from 21. 

40 is squared from 37. 

41 is obtained by sweeping the distance 23-30 
from 30, using point 23 as a pivot. 

42 is obtained by squaring line 38-39. 

43 is 2/3 of the breast from 21. 

44 and 45 are 3 1 / 4 inches each from 43. 
Shape the front and bottom, which completes 

the draft. 



Page Six 




Diagram III 



Page Seven 



Drafting the Under Collar 



Diagram IV 



ALL sack coat collars, single or double 
breasted, are drafted by this method. The 
leaf of the double breasted coats are made 
one-quarter inch wider. 

Extend the break A-B to C. 

Draw line J-E parallel to A-B. 

N to D is 1% inches. 

D to J is y± inch. 

D to E is the width of back. 

E to F is y± inch allowed extra for fullness. 

Square up from F to K. 

K to L is Vi inch. 

C to K is 2 1 / 4 inches, the width of turnover. 
This can be made in various widths. 

B to I is V4 inch. 

G to H is % inch. 

Draw line K-H. 

Shape the bottom part F-J-I-H and see that it 
has the same run as the gorge D-B-G. 

Draw lines B-C-L and L-M. 

Shape the notch M-H, which completes the 
under collar. 




Paae Eight 



Regular Sleeves 



Diagram V 



THIS sleeve can be used to all the coat drafts in this book. It is a good hanging, balanced 
sleeve. The ball of sleeve should give about 2 inches fullness on top sleeve and there 
should be about one each fullness on under sleeve. Measurements: Size 36 inches: 
seam 18 inches. 



m- 



DRAFT 

Draw line ADCB. 

A to D is 1/12 of 18. 

D to C is !/4 of 18. 

C to B is 18 inches, the inseam. 

V is half way between C and D. 

Square out from points ADCVB. 

C to E is l 1 /^ inches. 

EF is y 2 of 18. 

Square up and down from point F. 

K is half way between J and A. 

L is half way between A and K. 

Shape the top sleeve F-K-E. 

C to N and C to M are 1% inches each. 

Shape E-N. 

B to O is % inch. 

to R and to P are l x /4 inches each. 

Draw lines M-R and N-P. 

Shape the inseam of sleeve N-P. 

O to S is half of the bottom of sleeve plus % 
inch. 

Square down from S to T. 

S to T is iy 2 inches. 

Shape the outside seam F-H-G-T, coming out 
V2 inch at point G. 

Shape the bottom T-O-P, which finishes the 
top sleeve. 

UNDER SLEEVE 

F to Y is 1 inch. 

Draw line J-U. 

Shape the line Y-M. 

Shape the inseam M-R and the outside seam 
Y-T. 

Draw the bottom T-R, which completes the 
draft. 




Paae Nine 



Double-Breasted Young Men's Sack Coat 



T 



Diagram VI 

HIS draft is based on the explanation in the conservative sack coat. There are a few slight 
changes which the reader should follow very carefully. The allowances that are given 
for the button stand and the method of obtaining the center line is fully explained. 



MEASUREMENTS. 



Breast 36 inches. 
Waist 32 inches. 
Length 30 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line ABCDEFG. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is % of 19. 
B to D is y 2 of 19. 
B to E is I6V2 inches, waist length. 
B to F is 24 inches. 
B to G is the full length or 30 inches. 
Square out from points ABCDEFG. 
E to I is % inch. 
G to H is % inch. 
Draw lines E-I and I-H. 
B to J is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch. 
J to K is 1 inch. 
Draw line A-K. 

D to L is 1/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. (For a 
men's draft make this 2 inches.) 
Square up from L to M. 
N is half way between M and line C. 
L to O is 1/12 of 18. 
to P is % inch. 
Draw line N-P. 
L to R is % inch. 



Square down from R to S. 

S to T is % inch. 

Draw line P-Q-T, which completes the back 

FOREPART 

D to X is 2/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. 
Square up from X to 3. 

3 to 4 is 1/6 of the breast plus V2 inch. 

4 to 5 is % inch. For men's sack it is x /4 inch, 
Draw lines 4-N and 4-2. 

4 to 6 is % less than K to N. 

Shape the armhole 6-P and the shoulders 4-6, 

Q to U is % inch. 

Y is 2 inches from line Q-T. 

Shape the side seam T-U-V-W and make it Va 
inch longer than P-Q-T. 

Y is 18 inches from line B-I. 

Y to 20 is 2 1 / 4 inches. (For men's make Y to 
20 two and a half inch.) 

20 to 21 is % inch. 

21 to Z is V2 of button stand, 2y 2 inches in 
this case. 

Square up from Z to 7 and down from Z to 
11. 

7 to 8 is 1/6 of 18. 

Draw line 8-3. 

Shape the gorge and lapel. 

Sweep the distance 5-W to point 11. 11 to 
12 is 1% inches, which completes draft. 



Page Ten 




Diagram VI 



Page Eleven 



T 



Three-Button Young Men's Sack Coat 

Diagram VII 

HIS draft is made for a high suppressed waist effect. You will note that the wi 
back from A to M is made one-quarter inch wider than the double breasted sack. 
is taken off at the point of shoulder from X to Y. 



This 



MEASUREMENTS. 



Breast Size 36 inches. 
Waist Length 16% inches. 
Coat Length 30 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw the construction line ABCDEFG. 
A to B is % inch. 
C is % of 19 from B. 
D is y 2 of 19 from B. 
E is I6V2 inches from B. 
F is 22% inches from B. 
G is 30 inches from B, the full length. 
Square out from points ABCDEFG. 
H is 1 inch from E. 
I is 1 inch from G. 
Shape the center seam A-H-I. 
J is 1/3 of breast plus 1% inches from D. 
K is squared from J. 
L is 1/6 of breast plus % inch from B. 
M is 1% inches from L. 
Draw line A-M. 
N is squared from C. 
O is half way between K and N. 
P is % inch from 0. 
Draw line M-P. 

Q is half way between J and N. 
Q to 3 is % inch. This is a trifle higher than 
regular, so as to give the coat a military effect. 
R is 1/3 of breast from H. 
S is squared from R. 
T is squared from R. 
U is 1 inch from T. 



Shape the side-seam 3-R-U 
U-I, which finishes the back. 



and the bottom 



FOREPART. 

Y is 2/3 of breast plus 1% inches from D. 
W is squared from V. 

X is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch from W. 

Y is V2 inch from X. 
Draw lines Y-P and Y-Z. 

Y to 2 is % inch less than M to P. 

Shape the shoulder and armhole 2-Y and 2-3. 

4 is iy± inches from R. 

5 is 1% inches from S. 

6 from 3 is the same distance as 3 to U. 
Shape the side-seam 3-4-5-6. 

7 is x /-2 of the breast, 18 inches from line C-H. 

8 is 3% inches from 7, the allowance for but- 
ton stand and make-up. 

9 is squared from 8. 

10 is squared from 8. 

11 is 2 inches from 10. 

12 is the guide line, which is squared from 
the waistline, as explained in previous diagram. 

Sweep from point Y to get the run of bottom. 

13 is 1/6 of breast from 9. 

14 is 1 inch from W. 
Draw line 13-14. 

Shape the gorge, lapel, front and bottom. 

Take out V2 inch Vee at point 16 and % inch 
Vee at point 15, which completes the draft. 

This is drafted a trifle smaller than the previ- 
ous models, which gives the garment an Eng- 
lish effect. 



Page Tivelve 




Diagram VII 



Page Thirteen 



Two-Button Young Men's English Sack Coat 

Diagram VIII 

THIS garment is drafted with a very narrow shoulder. It has a suppressed high waist effect. 
The sleeve should be drafted the same as the regular sleeve with the exception that an 
extra one-half inch should be allowed on the ball of top sleeve in height. The sleeves 
can also be made a trifle narrower, in order to harmonize with the body. 



MEASUREMENTS. 

Breast 36 inches. 

Waist 31 inches. 

Waist Length 16% inches. 

Full Length 30 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line ABCDEFG. 

A to B is % inch. 

C is y 4 of 19 from B. 

D is V 2 of 19 from B. 

E is 16V2 inches from B. 

F is 22% inches from B. 

G is 30 inches from B, the full length. 

Square out from points ABCDEFG. 

H is 1 inch from E. 

I is % inch from G. 

Shape the center-seam A-H-I. 

L is 1/3 of breast from D. 

M is 1% inches from L. 

N is squared from M. 

5 is half way between N and line C. 

O is % inch from 5. 

J is 1/6 of breast plus % inch from B. 

J to K is 1% inches. 

Draw line A-K. 

Draw line K-O. 

Q is 1/12 of breast from M. 

R is 3 /4 inch from Q. 

Draw line O-R. 

S is 1/3 of breast from H. 



P is squared from S. 
T is % inch from P. 

Shape the side-seam R-S-T and the bottom 
T-I, which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 

U is % inch from S. 

V is the same length from R as T is from R. 
16 is l x /2 inches from 15. 
Shape the side-seam R-U-V. 
W is 2/3 of breast plus IV2 inches from D. 
X is % of breast or 18 inches from line C-H. 
X to Y is 3% inches, IV2 inches for button 
stand and 2 1 /i inches for make-up and seams. 
Z is squared from Y. 

2 is squared from W. 

3 is 1/6 of breast plus % inch from 2. 
Drop shoulder point V2 inch from 3. 
3 to 4 is Yt inch less than K to 0. 

Shape the shoulder and armhole 4-3 and 4-R. 

6 is 1/6 of breast from Z. 

Draw line 2-6. This gives you a lower gorge 
effect by drawing line 2-Z on a greater angle 
than if point were dropped V2 or % inch. 

6 to 7 is 2 inches. 

7 to 8 is 2 1 / 4 inches. 

9 is the length of lapel, which is 5 inches 
from Y. 

Shape the front and bottom as illustrated. 

Take out % inch Vee at point 14 and V± inch 
Vee at point 13, which completes the draft. 



Page Fourteen 




Diagram VIII 



Page Fifteen 



Golf Coat — Norfolk Effect 



Diagram IX 

THIS garment is drafted similar to the regu- 
lar young men's sack coat, which is ex- 
plained in a previous diagram. The back 
is split from M to C and across the waist line 
from to E. An inch inverted plait is made 
from 15 to 16. In splitting a pattern an allow- 
ance of % inch should be made on each side of 
the split. The forepart is split across the chest 
at line 10 and across the waist from 11 to X. 
An inch inverted plait is made from 10 to 11. 
The belt is sewed down all around, which hides 
the seam where the pattern is split at the waist. 
Various style garments are made by splitting 
the pattern in a similar manner. 



Page Sixteen 




Diagram IX 



Page Seventeen 



Young Men's Tuxedo 

Diagram X 



THIS draft is made similar to the young- 
men's English coat. All the allowances 
and measurements are the same, with the 
exception that only 1 inch is allowed for the 
button stand from T to U. This draft is made 
for size 36. From 10 to 27 is 1% inches. Line 
23-27 is then squared to line 13, which gives the 
run of front. A one-quarter inch Vee is taken 
out at the gorge at point 20, which gives the 
garment a slight chest effect. The slash pocket 
is made to sew right into the Vee. One-quar- 
ter inch is taken out at point 18. This coat can 
also be made with a regular pocket. The 
shoulders are drafted rather narrow. An extra 
% inch should be added to the height of ball of 
sleeve. 



Page Eighteen 




Diagram X 



Page Nineteen 



Three-Button Single-Breasted Frock Coat 



T 



Diagram XI 

HIS draft should be carefully studied and memorized, as it is the basis for all body fitting 
garments. Various styles of cutaways and frock coats can be created from this draft. 



MEASUREMENTS. 

Breast 36 inches. 

Waist 32 inches. 

Waist Length 16% inches. 

Fashionable Length 18 inches. 

Full Length 37 inches. 

DRAFT. 

Draw line ABCDEFGH. 

A to B is % inch. 

C is V 4 of 19 from B. 

D is y 2 of 19 from B. 

E is I6V2 inches from B. 

F is 18 inches from B. 

G is 23 inches from B. 

H is 37 inches from B, the full length. 

Square out from points ABCDEFGH. 

K is % inch from F. 

Draw line B-K-H. 

I is IV4 inches from K. 

J is l 1 ^ inches from H. 

Draw line I-J. 



V2 inch from R. 



L is Vs of breast from K. 



Square up from point L. 

M is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch from B. 

Square up from M. 

N is 1 inch from M. 

Draw line A-N. 

O is 1/3 of breast from D. 

P is 2 inches from O. 

Q is squared from P. 

R is squared from P. 

S is half way between Q and R. 

T is half way between S and R. 

Draw line N-S. 

Draw the guide line Q-F. 

Shape the back seam R-L. 

H to 21 is 1/8 of breast plus % inch. 

Draw line L-21, which completes the back. 

SIDE-BODY. 

U is IV2 inches from L. 

Square up from U. 

V is % of breast from line U. 



w is y 2 


of breast from D. 


W to X 


is % 


inch. 


X to Y 


is % 


inch. 



Z is 

Z to 2 is % inch. 
Shape the seams 2-Z-U and Y-V. 
Draw the bottom as illustrated and shape the 
armhole, which completes the side-body. 

FOREPART. 

3 is 2/3 of breast from B. 

4 is iy 2 inches from 3. 
Square up from 4 to 5. 

6 is 1/6 of breast from 5. (You will note that 
the shoulder is made y 2 inch more crooked than 
the regular sack draft.) 

7 is Vi inch from 6. 
Draw lines 7-S and 7-T. 

7 to 8 is ^ inch less than N to S. 
Shape the shoulder 7-8 and the armhole 8-Y. 
V to 28 is y 2 inch. 
Shape the side-seam Y-28. 
9 is V2 of breast from line XX. 
9 to 10 is 4 inches for iy 2 inches button stand 
and 2% inches make-up. 

11 is squared from 10. 

12 is 1/6 of breast from 11. 

13 is y 2 inch from 5. 

14 is 2*4 inches from break 

15 is 2 inches from 14. 

16 is the length of lapel, 2% 

17 is squared from 16. 

18 is 1/6 of breast from 17. 

19 is 14 inch from 17. 

Shape the gorge, lapel and front. 
Draw line 18-29. 

Take out V4 inch Vee at point 20, which com- 
pletes the forepart. 

SKIRT. 

21 is squared from L. 

22 is squared from L. 

23 is 1 inch from 22. 
Draw line 23-H. 

Shape the back seam of skirt U-23-H. 

24 is 14 inch from 18. 
Shape the top of skirt U-24. 

25 is 1/3 of breast from H. 
Draw line 24-25. 

Shape the front and bottom of skirt as illus- 
trated, which completes the draft. 



tine. 



inches from 10. 



Page Twenty 




Diagram XI 



Page Tzuenty-one 



Full Dress Coat 



Diagram XII 

THE following draft is for a young man's full dress coat. It is similar to the frock coat, 
which is minutely explained in the previous diagram. All the following points should 
be memorized. The author has personally used this draft in a number of manufacturing 
plants and has seen its reproduction dozens oftimes by others. 



MEASUREMENTS 

Breast size 36 inches. 

Waist size 32 inches. 

Seat 38 inches. 

Fashionable waist length 16 inches. 

Natural waist length 17% inches. 

DRAFT 

Draw line ABCDEFGH. 

A to B is % inch. 

B to C is Vi of 19. 

B to D is V 2 of 19. 

B to E is 16 inches. 

B to F is nV 2 inches. 

B to G is 23 inches. 

B to H is 37 inches, the length. 

Square out from points ABCDEFGH. 

F to I is 1 inch. 

H to 5 is Yi inch. 

Draw lines A-I and 1-5. 

I to K and 5 to L are 1 3 4 inches each. 

Draw line K-L. 

B to M is 1/6 of 18 plus % inch. 

M to N is iy 8 inches. 

Draw line A-N. 

D to O is 1/3 of 18. 

to P is 2 inches. 
Square up from P to Q. 

R is half way between Q and 26. 
S is half way between R and 26. 
Draw line N-R. 
Draw line R-26. 
Draw line Q-I. 

1 to T is Vs of 18. 
Square up from T. 
U to 24 is V 8 of 18 plus 
Draw line 26-T-23-U. 



y 4 



inch. 



SIDE BODY 



W to X is V x of 18. 
D to Z is % of 18. 
Z to 2 is 1 inch. 

26 to 27 is V 2 inch. 

27 to 28 is % inch. 

Shape the seams 28-W-V, 2-X-18, 28-2 and 
V-18, which completes the side body. 



FOREPART 

D to 4 is 2/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. 

Square up from 4 to 5. 

5 to 6 is 1/6 of 18. 

7 to 30 is Vx inch less than N to R. 

Shape the shoulder 37 and the armhole 32. 

X to Y is % inch. 

Draw line 2-Y and shape side seam 2-Y-18. 

40 to 10 is V 2 of the breast, 18 inches. 

10 to 11 is 2% inches. 

11 to 12 is 1 inch. 
Square up from 12 to 13 and down from 12 to 



15. 



T to V is 1/12 of 18. 
Square up from V. 



3 to 9 is 1/6 of 18. 

5 to 8 is 3 /4inch. 

Draw line 8-9. 

15 is 1/6 of 18 from line F. 

15 to 16 is 1% inches. 

Draw line 14-16-17. 

Shape the lapel and bottom as illustrated. 

Take out x /± inch Vee at point 19. 



SKIRT 

23 to 22 is 1 inch. 

Draw line V-22 and line 22-24. 
19 to 20 is y 2 inch. 
Draw line V-20. 

24 to 25 is y 4 of 18. 
Draw line 20-25. 

Shape the seams V-22-24 and 20-24, which 
completes the draft. 



Page Twenty-two 




Diagram XII 



Page Twenty-three 



Prince Albert or Double -Breasted Frock Coat 



Diagram XIII 



T 



HERE is very little difference between the single-breasted Frock Coat and the Prince 
Albert. The back and side body are the same. The extra allowances that are given 
for the revere and fullness of the skirt are fully explained. 



MEASUREMENTS 

Breast 38 inches. 

Waist 34 inches. 

Fashionable waist length 18 inches. 

Natural waist length I6V2 inches. 

DRAFT 

Draw line KABCDEFG. 

K to A is Vi inch. 

A to B is V4 of 20. 

A to C is y 2 of 20. 

A to D is I6V2 inches. 

A to E is 18 inches. 

A to F is 24 inches. 

A to G is 38 inches, full length. 

Square out from points KABCDEFG. 

D to H is 1 inch. 

G to J is % inch. 

Draw lines A-H and H-J. 

H to N is % of 19. 

Square up from N to Y. 

A to L is 1/6 of 19 plus V2 inch. 

L to M is 1 inch. 

Draw line K-M. 

C to T is 1/3 of 19 plus 2 inches. 

Square up from T to U. 

R is half way between U and P. 

R to S is % inch. 

Draw line M-S. 

U-D is the guide line. 

Draw line S-P. 

Shape line T-N. 

J to O is % of 19 plus x /4 inch. 

Draw line N-O, which completes the back. 

Allow 1% inches for side plaits. 



FOREPART 

C to 5 is 2/3 of 19 plus IV2 inches. 

Square up from 5 to 12. 

12 to 13 is 1/6 of 19 plus V 2 inch. 

Draw lines 13-R and 13-29. 

29 to 13 is V 4 inch less than M to S. 

Shape the shoulder 29-13 and the armhole 
29-28. 

3 to 4 is % inch. 

Shape the side-seam 28-4-19. 

3 to 4 is y> inch. 

Shape the side-seam 28-4-19. 

C to 7 is 19y 2 inches. 

7 to 8 is 3% inches. 

Square up from 8 to 14 and down from 8 to 
10. 

14 to 31 is 1/6 of 19. 

31 to 30 is % inch. 

Shape the gorge 13-35-30. 

Shape the front 30-8-15, coming in % inch at 
point 10. 

10 is 1/6 of 19 from line E. 

Draw line 10-23. 

Shape the bottom 19-22-10. 

Take X A inch V at point 22, which completes 
the forepart. 



REVERE 

10 to 15 is 8V2 inches. 
15 to 16 is 3% inches. 
33 to 34 is y 8 of 19. 
Draw line 34-16. 
31 to 32 is y 8 of 19. 

Shape the front 32-34, which completes the 
revere. 



SIDE BODY 

N to 2 is IV2 inches. 

Square up from 2 to Z. 

P to V is y 2 inch. 

V to X is % inch. 

Draw line X-V-2-27. 

C to 28 is % of 19 plus % inch. 



2 to 3 is y 4 of 19. 
Draw line 28-3. 
Then shape lines 28-3-26 
completes the side body. 



and 26-27, which 



SKIRT 

24 to 25 is 2 1 A inches. 

Draw line 23-25-26, which is y inch longer 
than E to G. 

34 to 17 is 1 inch. 

Square down from 17 to 18. 

Draw line 23-17, hollowing out 1 inch. 

17 to 18 is the same length as 23 to 26. 

Shape the bottom 26-18, which completes the 
skirt. 



Page Twenty- jour 




Diagram XIII 



Page Twenty-five 



Stout Sack Coat 

Diagram XIV 

THIS draft is for a normal Stout figure, 5 ft. 7 in. in height. Full explanation is given as 
to the proper distribution of fat at the waist. Every detail should be carefully memo- 
rized. 



MEASUREMENTS. 

Breast 40 inches. 
Waist 40 inches. 
Length 31 inches. 

DRAFT— BACK. 

Draw line ABCDEFGH. 
A to B is % inch. 
B to C is V 4 of 21. 
B to E is V 2 of 21. 
D is half way between B and C. 
B to F is 17% inches. 
B to G is 26 inches (seat line). 
B to H is the full length of 31 inches. 
Square out from points ABCDEFGH. 
F to K is 3 /4 inch. 
H to J is Vi inch. 
Draw line A-K-J. 
E to M is 1/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. 
Square up from M to P. 
M to L is % inch. 
Square down from L to R. 
B to N is 1/6 of 20 plus % inch. 
N to is 1 inch. 
Draw line A-O. 
U to 2 is % inch. 
Draw line 0-2. 
M to V is 1/12 of breast. 

Come out % inch from point V to the point of 
side-seam. 

R to S is % inch. 

Draw line V-T-S, which completes the back. 

FOREPART. 

E to 3 is 2/3 of breast plus 1% inches. 
Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 to 11. 
4 to 5 is 1/6 of 20. 

E to X is V-> of breast (measure from the cen- 
ter seam of back). 



X to Y is 2V2 inches. 

Y to Z is 1% inches. 

Square up from Z to 7. 

Draw line 5-U. 

26 is half way between 25 and U. 

Draw line 5-26. 

5 to 23 is Vi less than 2 to O. 

7 to 6 is 1/6 of breast. 

Draw line 6-4, dropping V2 inch from point 4. 

Shape the gorge 5-8-9. 

Shape the armhole 23-24. 

Square down from Z to 12. 

12 to 13 is 1 inch. (This is 1 inch for fat, or 
in otherwords, 2/3 or V2 of the fat is applied at 
the front of the waistline. 

The halance 1/3 of % of the fat is divided 
equally between the side-seams of the forepart 
and back. 

In figuring the fat, the regular proportions 
are 40 breast, 37 waist, and the proportions on 
a regular stout is 40 breast, 40 waist. The dif- 
ference between the stout waist measure and 
the regular waist measure is what we call fat; 
therefore you will note that on a 40 stout we 
have C inches of fat, V2 being applied to the 
draft; that is, 1 inch at the front and V2 inch 
at the side-seams. 

Square down from 13 to 16. 

The side-seams cross at point T. 

21 to 22 is 2y 2 inches. 

Draw line V-T-20-22, which is the same length 
as V-T-S. 

8 to 9 is 3 inches. 

Make the notch of lapel 2 1 / i inches wide. 

Z to 10 is 2y 2 inches. 

Shape lapel front and bottom. 

Split the draft at point 19 to pocket at point 
17. 

Take in J /2 inch plait at point 18, using point 
17 as a pivot. This will open the Vee at point 
19, as required. 

Then straighten out bottom and fill in side- 
seam a trifle, which completes the draft. 



Page Twenty-six 




Diagram XIV 



Page Twenty-seven 



Stout Double-Breasted Sack Coat 

Diagram XV 

THIS coat is drafted similar to the regular 
stout with the following exceptions : From 
2 to 3 is % inch. 
From 3 to 6 is % the button stand or 2% 
inches in this case. 

8 is squared from 6. 

9 is 1 inch from 8, the amount of fat over the 
regular proportionate draft. 

The front is then shaped as illustrated. 

A cut is made in the gorge at point 25. 

26 to 25 is 2% inches. 

5 to 27 is 2% inches. 

The coat is then split the same as the single- 
breasted and plaited at point 21, as explained in 
the regular stout draft. 



Page Tzuenty-eight 




Diagram XV 



Page Twenty-nine 



Stout Frock Coat 

Diagram XVI 

THIS draft is similar to the regular frock with the following exceptions: The draft is made 
sizes 40, instead of 36. The same divisions of proportions are used. 

BACK 

The only difference in the back from the 
regular frock is that an extra x /± inch is al- 
lowed at point Q, making the distance from 
I to Q one-eighth of breast plus y± inch and 
the distance from H to R one-quarter of breast 
plus % inch. 

SIDE BODY 

An extra quarter inch is allowed on the width 
of side body at the waist line from line U to 2. 
This makes the distance from line U to 2 one- 
quarter of breast plus Vi inch. 

FOREPART 

7 to 8 is 1/6 of breast less *4 inch. 

For every inch of fat that is added to the 
front of forepart the shoulder point at neck is 
thrown back % inch. This explains the pre- 
vious measurement. 

You will also note that the point of shoulder 
is placed on the top construction line and is not 
dropped Vi inch as on the regular frock. This 
gives the necessary added length to the front of 
forepart. 

16 to 17 is % inch or % of % of the fat (on 
this draft the fat is 3 inches, V2 of 3 inches is 
1% inches, % of l 1 /^ inches is % inch, which 
is added from 16 to 17. An extra r /± inch is 
also added at the side seam at waist line. This 
makes in all IV2 inches added over the normal 
on the waist.) 

18 is squared from 17. 

From 18 to 19 a half inch is added for the 
Vee that is taken out at point 25. 

The skirt is dropped % inch at point 22, so 
as to hold in the front edge. 



Page Thirty 




Diagram XVI 



Page Thirty-one 



Pinch Back Sack Coat 



Diagram XVII 

THE following draft will give the reader an 
idea as to how the pattern is manipulated 
to obtain a pinch back effect. This dia- 
gram also illustrates how to get a curved, 
crease lapel line effect. The proportions of this 
draft are similar to the regular young men's 
garment, which is illustrated on a previous 
page. In creating a pinch back, an extra allow- 
ance must be made at the waist line for the 
goods that is pinched or gathered in. You 
will note that I square down from L to S and 
then I draw a straight line from R to S. There 
are three corded seams, 23-24-25, of % inch 
each. At point 26, the pinch, I take out 3 A inch. 
This gives me totalling in all 1% inches. At 
point 22 in the forepart I take out a three-quar- 
ter inch Vee. The amount of suppression at 
the waist can be regulated according to the 
wishes of the draftsman. 

To get the round effect for the lapel, I make 
an 8-inch curved Vee, which is illustrated by 
lines 15, 20 and 19-20. This Vee should come 
out % inch back of the crease line, so that the 
lapel should not be too thick at this point. 19 
is 1 inch forward from point W. From 19 to 20 
is 8 inches. From 19 to 15 is 1 inch. From 15 
to 20 is 8 inches. From 15 to 16 is % inch. This 
allows for two seams and for the quarter inch 
extra for crease seam. Any style lapel is then 
made as illustrated by lines 16-17-18 and 21. 



Paye-Th irty-two 




Diagram XVII 



Page Thirty-three 



Making Longs and Shorts From Regular Block 



Diagram XVIII 



MAKING Longs and Shorts from the Normal Block Pattern 
trated are made from the normal block pattern, which is figured on a basis of 5 ft. 8 in 



in height. 
6 ft. in height. 



The changes herein illus- 

ired on a basis of 5 ft. 8 in. 

The short is figured for a 5 ft. 4 in. in height and the long is figured for a 



BACK. 

BACDEFGH is the normal, 5 ft. 8 in. 

To raise the height to 6 feet give y% inch 
from B to 1 and A to 2. 

From C to 3 on point of shoulder give X A inch 
or V2 the distance that the height is raised 
from A to 2. 

At the waistline lower 1 inch from E to 4 and 
H to 5. This amount is exactly ^4 inch for 
every inch in height the man is above the 
normal. 

Lengthen the coat from F to 6 and G to 7 twc 
inches. (This amount can vary according to the 
style, but it should always be at least 1 inch 
longer than the normal.) 

For the short, that is to lower the height to 
a 5 ft. 4, you will note that from A to 9 and B 
to 10 are % inch each ; from C to 8 y 4 inch. 
(This is practically the same as the long, onlj 
the change is made in the opposite direction.) 

Shorten the waistline as indicated from E to 
H and H to 12, which are 1 inch each. 

Shorten the garment from F to 13 and G tc 
14, which are 1 inch each. 

FOREPART. 

LMNOPQRSTU is the normal forepart, 5 feet 
8 inches. 

To make a long or a 6-foot draw line L-N-17 
from armhole notch through shoulder point. 

N to 17 is y 2 inch. 

M to 18 is y 4 inch. 

to 19 is Vi inch. 

Reshape the shoulder and gorge as illus- 
trated. 



Draw line L-18. 

Lower the waist 1 inch from Q to 20 and T 
to 21. 

Lower the length of coat from R to 22 and S 
to 23, which are 2 inches each. 

Reshape the side-seam. 

Lower the pocket V2 inch from XX to 27 and 
XX to 28. 

To make a short 5 foot 4 you do the opposite 
across the shoulder and neck as in the long. 



N to 31 is 



% 



inch. 



M to 32 is Vi inch. 

O to 34 is y 4 inch. 

Reshape the shoulder and the gorge and the 
armhole 8-32. 

Shorten the waist 1 inch from Q to 35 and T 
to 36. 

Shorten the coat 1 inch from R to 37 and S 
to 38. 

Reshape the side-seam and raise the pocket 
% inch from XX to 41 and XX to 42. 
SLEEVE. 

For long, add y 4 '.nch from V to 24 and re- 
shape the ball of sleeve. 

Lengthen the sleeve 1 inch from Y to 25 and 
Z to 26. 

Reshape the outside seam. 

For a short, take off y 4 inch from V to 30 and 
reshape the ball of sleeve W-30-L. 

Shorten sleeve 1 inch from Y to 39 and Z tc 
40. 

Reshape the side-seam. 

For all heights for every inch over or under 
5 ft. 8 in., the normal, lengthen or shorten the 
sleeve y 4 inch as the case may be. 



Page Thirty-four 




Diagram XVIII 



Page Thirty-five 



Single Breasted Men's and Young Men's Vest 

Diagram XIX 



T 



HIS diagram should be memorized, as it is the basic draft on which the system for draft- 
ing vests is founded. The points are somewhat similar to those used in the sack coats at 
many places. The other vests are created with slight variations. 



MEASUREMENTS 

Breast 36 inches. 
Waist 32 inches. 
Length 26 a /2 inches. 

DRAFT 

Draw line ABCDEF. 

A to B is % inch. 

B to C is % of 19. 

B to D is V 2 of 19. 

B to E is 17 inches or the waist length. 

E to F is 3 inches. 

Square out from points ABCDEF. 

B to H is 1/6 of the breast plus V2 inch. 

Square up from H to I. 

H to I is 1 inch. 

D to J is 1/3 of 18 plus 1 inch. 

Square up from J to K. 

L is half way between K and 13. 

Draw line I-L. 

Shape the neck A-I. 

E to G is % inch. 

Shape the center seam B-C-G. 

D to P is 2/3 of 18 plus 1% inches. 

M is half way between P and J. 

G to 14 is V2 of 16 the waist measure. 

14 to O is 1 inch. 

Draw line 5-M. 

Draw line M-0-4. 

Shape the bottom, which completes the back. 



FOREPART 

Square up from P to R. 

R to S is 1/6 of 18. 

Drop the point of shoulder x /± inch at point S. 

Draw line S-L. 

S to 7 and S to 8 are % inch respectively. 

D to T is 18 inches. 

T to U is 2% inches. 

Square up from U to Y and down from U to 
W. 

A-I plus S-W is V-/2 inches more than the 
length of vest. 

S to 6 is Vi inch less than 5 to I. 

Shape the armhole 6-M. 

16 to 15 is iy 2 inches. 

15 to N is y 2 of 16. 

Draw line M-N. 

Shape the side seam M-N-Z. 

7 to 10 is the same distance as I to A. 

10 to 9 is 1V± inches. 

Draw line S-U. 

Shape the neck 9-8 and the front U-16-V-3. 

Shape the bottom Z-3. 

For a young men's vest take out Vee at point 
11. 



Page Thirty-six 




Diagram XIX 



Page Thirty-seven 



Five-Button Double Breasted Vest 



Diagram XX 




THIS draft illustrated exactly how to create 
double-breasted vests. It also gives the 
reader a good idea of how to get extra 
suppression at the waist by inserting an extra 
Vee in the back. The draft is made similar to 
the single-breasted vest, which is explained in 
the previous diagram, with the following ex- 
ceptions : 

From 3, which is the breast measure, to 4 is 
2*4 inches. 

5 is squared from 4. 

6 is squared from 4. 

7 is 2V2 inches from 4 or V2 the desired but- 
ton stand. In this case it is 5 inches. 

8 is squared from 7. 



9 is x h inch from 8. This makes the bottom 
button spacing 4 inches apart. 

10 is squared from 4. 

The waist measure is figured back from point 
10. 

10 to 11 is V2 of the waist. 

12 is l 3 /4 inches from 11, an extra ^ inch be- 
ing allowed for the Vee. 

The length of this double-breasted vest is V2 
inch longer than the regular vest. 

BACK 

The only difference in the back is that an 
extra V2 inch is given from S to T for the allow- 
ance taken out in the Vee at point 17. 



Page Thirty-eight 



Full Dress Vest 



Diagram XXI 




THIS vest is drafted similar to the regular 
young men's vest, which has been ex- 
plained in a previous diagram. Measure- 
ments: Breast, 36 inches; Waist, 32 inches; 
length, 26V2 inches. 

In order to get the run of the front, use the 



breast measure illustrated by point U, which is 
V2 of the breast or 18 inches from 14. U to 9 
is 2 inches. 12 to T and 12 to 8 are % inch 
each. Point X is located at the waist line. Shape 
the front T-U-X as illustrated. Then shape the 
collar 8-9-X, which finishes the draft. 



Page Thirty-nine 



Stout Vest 

Diagram XXI 




THE stout vest is drafted somewhat similar to the regular vest. The fat is figured the same 
as the stout sack. When there is a greater amount of fat, it should be divided in the same 
proportion as explained in this draft.Measurements : Breast, 40 inches; waist, 40 
inches; length, 29 inches. 



DRAFT 

Draw line ABCDEF. 

A to B is % inch. 

B to C is V 4 of 21. 

B to D is % of 21. 

B to E is 17 inches. 

B to G is 20y 2 inches. 

Square out from points ABCDEF. 

B to J is 1/6 to 40 plus % inch. 

Square up from J to K. 

J to K is 7 /s inch. 

Draw line A-K. 

E to G is % inch. 

Draw line A-G-H. 

Shape the center seam. 

D to L is 1/3 of 20 plus 1 inch. 

Square up from L to M. 

M to N is Vh of 20. 

Draw line K-N. 

D to 8 is 2/3 of 20 plus 1% inches. 

Square up from S to T. 

L to O is V2 of L to S plus y 2 inch. 

G to P is V2 of 20 plus 1 inch. 

Draw line O-P-Q. 

Shape the bottom, which completes the back. 

Page Forty 



FOREPART 

T to U is 1/6 of 40. 

Draw line U-N. 

2 to U is *4 less than K to 4. 

Shape the shoulder 2-U and the armhole 2-0. 

Line C-G to Y is % of 40. 

Y to Z is 2V 2 inches. 

Square up from Z to 3 and down from Z to 7. 

6 to 5 is 1 inch, or 2/3 of V2 of the fat. 
U to X is 1/6 of 40. 

Draw line X-Z-5-8. 
U to W is % inch. 

7 W to 17 is the same as K to A. 
Shape the front as illustrated. 

12 to 13 is y 2 of waist. 

13 to R is IV2 inches. 
Draw line O-K-Q. 
Shape the bottom. 

Split the pocket through from 20 to 21 and 
plait y 2 inch at point 9. 

Reshape the bottom and side seam, which 
completes the draft. 



Making A Whole Back 



Diagram XXII 




THIS shows how to make a whole back from 
a seam back. ABCDEHFG is the regular 
back. Draw line B-D. Place the back as 
indicated, so that the top and bottom point of 
the center seam will just touch the line B-D. 
Then split the back at the waist line from H to 
C, and take in a /2-inch plait as indicated by lines 
1 and 2. This will bring the entire center seam 
along the line B-D. 

Reshade the side-seam F-6. Then add V2 inch 
from 6 to E, the original length of side-seam. 

For a whole back, take off *4 inch as indi- 
cated by the line 4-5. 

This back can also be used on striped goods 
with a center seam by not taking off the seam, 
as described heretofore. 



K-l 



2, 5 




Page Forty-one 



Manipulating the Shoulder, Collar and Armhole 



T 



Diagram XXIII 

HIS illustration explains how the shoulders are joined, where the fullness of the back 
should be left in, how the armhole should be taped, where the bridle should be held in and 
where the fullness of collar should be put. 

SHOULDER 

The quarter inch fullness that is allowed ex- 
tra on the back should be left in from A to B as 
marked. 

ARMHOLE 

Great care should be taken in taping the arm- 
hole, as this has a vital bearing upon the fit of 
the garment. C is the front notch. The tape 
should be laid flat from E to F. E is 3 inches 
from C and F is 2 inches from C. A tape should 
be sewed from G to I and held short % inch be- 
tween G and H, as shown by the short parallel 
lines. 

COLLAR 

The fullness of collar, which should amount 
to % inch should be left in between points M 
and N. The collar should be held short between 
and P. This will bring the collar to the 
neck and will help materially in the fit of the 
garment. A tape should be placed along the 
bridle, as illustrated by line J-K. It should be 
held in about *4 inch short between points L 
and K. This will keep the collar from stretch- 
ing out along the crease edge of lapel and assist 
in helping the collar fit closely to the neck. 



Paqe Fortv-two 




Diagram XXIII 



Page Forty-three 



Mail-Order Changes 



THE following diagrams explain in detail 
varying changes used in mail order houses. 
These changes are made to one degree, or 
% inch on square and sloping shoulders and % 
on stooping and erect forms. The same prin- 
ciple applies to the various degrees from % to 
% inch. 



SLEEVE 

1 to 5 is % inch. 

Reshape the ball of sleeve. 




DIAGRAM C 

Making a stoop from the normal block. 

BACK 

Swing in the back as illustrated. 

H to 9 and G to 8 is % inch. 

I to 10 is r A inch. 

J to 11 is x /4 inch. 

Reshape the back as illustrated. 



FOREPART 

Swing the forepart forward % of an 
using the notch of armhole as a pivot. 
A to 3 and 2 to 3 is % inch each. 
B to 4 is % inch. 
Reshape shoulder front and armhole. 

Q 

c, 



inch, 



Diagram A 

DIAGRAM A 

Making a square shoulder from the normal 
block. 







BACK 


A to 1 
G to 3 
Reshap 


and B to 2 is Vg inch. 

is % inch. 

e the neck and shoulder 






FOREPART 


E to 5 is % 
D to 4 is y 4 
Reshape the 


inch, 
inch, 
shoulder. 






SLEEVE 


6 to 7 
Reshap 


is % inch. 

e the ball of sleeve. 




T 



DIAGRAM B 

HESE diagrams show how to make a slop- 
ing shoulder from the normal block. 



BACK 

F to 6 is yi inch. 
Reshape the shoulder. 

FOREPART 

B to 2 is ~y± inch. 
C to 3 is V4 inch. 
D to 4 is i/4 inch. 
Reshape the shoulder and armhole. 

Page Forty-four 



Diagram B 

DIAGRAM D 

Making an erect from the normal block. 
The change is made the opposite from 
rtoop. 

BACK 

H to A and G to H is % inch each. 
F to 6 is % inch. 
Reshape the back. 

FOREPART 

A to 3 and 3 to 4 is %. 
B to 5 is %. 
Reshape the front. 



the 




Diagram D 



MAKING A WIDE BACK 

THIS diagram illustrates the change I make 
in making a back 3 A inch wider than the 
normal block pattern. 
A to 1 is % inch. 
B to 2 is 1 inch. 
C to 3 is % inch. 

Reshape the back as indicated by the dotted 
lines. 



FOREPART 

G to 7 is V 2 inch. 

D to 4 is % inch. 

Extend the forepart at front % inch as illus- 
trated by the dotted lines. Reshape the shoulder 
and armhole, making the shoulder to correspond 
with the shoulder of back. 

3 to 6 is % inch. 

Reshape the side-seam. 

SLEEVES 

Take % inch off head of top sleeve, as illus- 
trated by dotted line. Then hollow out under 
sleeve % inch, as illustrated by line L-F. 



Making A Wide Back 

[Mail Order Changes, Continued on Next Page] 



Page Forty- five 




DIAGRAM E 

Making a long and short neck. 

BACK 

to U and H to S is V^ inch each. 
O to V and H to T is % inch each. 
Reshape the neck and shoulder. 



FOREPART 

Draw line C-A from notch through shoulder 
point. 

A to I and A to J is V2 inch each. 
to M and to L is % inch each. 
Reshape shoulder and neck. 



Diagram E 



Making A Box Back From A Regular Sack Coat 

BACK 

DRAW the construction line 1-5. Then swing out your back % inch from 5 to 4, using 
point I as a pivot. This brings your back in % of inch from 15 to 16, and your point 11 
will lower to 12. 16 to 17 is IV2 inches. Draw line 12-17 and 3-5, taking off % inch at 
center seam, which completes the change on the back. 

FOREPART 

From 18 to 19 is 1 inch. Draw line 21-20-19 so as to make the side seam straight. Reshape 
the bottom. Measure side seams so that they are equal in length, which completes the change. 




P n ge Forty-six 



Men's and Boys' Proportions 



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Page Forty-seven 



^pllllliilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll^ 

Seek Knowledge — 

Empty Your Purse Into Your Brains ] 

— Buy Books | 



w 




r HEN you are in doubt as to 
grading patterns and haven't 
the time to figure it out for your- 
self; when you want the snappiest 
and most stylish salable designs in sack coats, overcoats, vests, pants, cotton 
garments, etc., or some necessary bit of information slips out of your memory, 
then it is that these text books demonstrate their worth. 



"Grading Book" $15.00; "Designing Sack Coats and Vests" $15.00; "De- 
signing Overcoats" $15.00; "Designing Pants" $10.00; "Drafting Cotton 
Garments" $10.00; "Men's, Women's and Boys' Proportion Book" $2.00 



m Cl'r%^^»'i #» 1 ^"^l-l-^v*»» Proportion Book FREE to purchasers of one or more of the text books. Liberal g 
g vJ^JGV*l«.l V/11CI • Discounts will be made those purchasing the entire set of Books. §§ 



THE CLOTHING DESIGNER CO. 70 Fifth Ave., New York 

IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIM .N.iillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllili! 



ffi 



Are You Equipped 
To Win Success ? 

We teach pattern drafting, grading 
and designing. 

Personal instruction or mail courses. 

Earn while you learn, it not being 
necessary to give up working hours to 
study. 

We have special courses for drafts- 
men and designers who desire to "brush 
up. 

Our twenty different courses take 
in woolen, worsted work and cotton 
garment trades. 

Write for literature, etc. 



Patterns with a "Punch" 

We Supply Hundreds of Manufacturers Con- 
tinually. Why Not You? 

STYLISH, well-balanced patterns are an ab- 
solute necessity. You may plod along and 
"get by" with the regular line of patterns, 
but in order to grow and put your business in 
the front rank it is imperative that you use the 
product of a high-class, talented designer. 

To this end our Pattern Department serves 
you. Under the personal supervision of Harry 
Simons, who has been connected with several 
of the best known clothing manufacturers in 
the country, every pattern is given that cer- 
tain distinctive "touch" which makes it different 
than the ordinary pattern. Patterns with a 
"punch," in other words, is what we sell you, 
and your cloths cut from these patterns will 
give your product that balanced and tailored 
appearance that will bring repeat orders result- 
ing in materially increased business. 



!1l!l|||||li!l||||i!!!::illl||||||l!!|!lil|||!lllllll!i|||l!lllll!IM 



Harry Simons Designing Studio The Clothing Designer Company 



70 Fifth Avenue 



New York, N. Y. 



70 Fifth Avenue, New York, N. Y. 



